Under the Infinite Sky

The weather has settled down here towards autumn and it has become pleasant, especially at night for walks. The temperature is almost perfect. The other day I took a night walk, then wrote this when I got back:

walking at night
the sky opens
above me[1]

夜道ゆく天のひらけて上にかな
yomichi yuku ten no hirakete ue ni kana[2]

Picture generated by ChatGPT
Picture generated by ChatGPT

Japan is a small country and the liveable land is even smaller, making cities tight and cramped. As a result, everything is smaller. Houses are smaller, roads and cares and parking spaces — all smaller. Pretty much everything is just smaller. Think New York City. Without the overwhelming number of people there (well, outside major cities like Tokyo anyway) but with the lack of space.

This isn’t necessarily a bad thing. You get used to it, and the smaller scale of everything makes it more comfortable than not. But it is an undeniable fact, at least in most of the country. Hokkaido being a big exception.

But sometimes, when walking, when the night sky opens up and the stars come out, everything feels larger under that infinite sky. The cramped streets fall away. The stars push everything outward. For a moment the country that usually feels compressed becomes impossibly wide. That was something of how I felt as I was walking the other night. The above haiku hints at my awe a little more in the Japanese version than in the English one, with the kireji kana, which is something like a sigh of wonder or an exhale of awe.

Mistaken for a Scarecrow

Even in his moments of forgetfulness, Issa finds poetry, turning a lapse of memory into a moment of laughter and quiet insight.

うかと来て我をかがしの替哉 一茶
uka to kite ore wo kagashi no kawari kana[1]

absent-minded
I’m the scarecrow’s
replacement
—Issa[2]

Scarecrow by Unknown
“Scarecrow” by Unknown

This is a fun haiku from Issa showing his characteristic blend of humor and humility. Written in 1814, it imagines the poet standing absent-mindedly, presumably upon moving somewhere and forgetting why he wanted to be there, so still and unfocused that someone might mistake him for a scarecrow. It is comic and strangely touching, a flash of human self-awareness that turns a moment of distraction into poetry.

Issa returned to this idea a few years later, writing in 1818:

ふいと立おれをかがしの替哉
fui to tatsu ore o kagashi no kawari kana

suddenly I’m
standing, mind gone —  their new scarecrow

In the later version, his humor sharpens. The mood shifts from “I was mistaken for a scarecrow” to “I’ve become one,” as if his absentmindedness has completed the transformation. It’s this gentle self-deprecation humor that makes Issa so relatable even two centuries later.

We’ve all had moments like this: you stand up to do something, only to forget why. You wander into another room, your purpose dissolving somewhere between steps. There’s a moment of blankness, of suspension. ….why did I come in this room, we think to ourselves. In Issa’s world, that tiny lapse becomes a glimpse of life’s absurdity.

It’s tempting to read these haiku through the lens of aging—memory lapses, distraction, but they also speak to a universal, timeless kind of inattention. The mind drifts; the body remains. Issa, ever the observer of small, ordinary moments, turns even forgetfulness into art.

What makes his humor endure is its warmth. He never mocks others, only himself — and even then, gently. It perfectly captures the essence of Issa’s personality: tender toward all living things, yet aware of his own ridiculousness. It’s self-mockery as compassion.

There’s also a quiet philosophical thread here. A scarecrow is an imitation of life: a man-shaped thing that fools birds. In mistaking himself for one, Issa acknowledges how thin the line can be between life and its semblance, between purpose and pause. His moment of blankness becomes a kind of Buddhist stillness: the ego fading, awareness merging with the field, until all that’s left is form and silence.

That could be a stretch. But Issa was quite serious in his Buddhism, so I don’t think it is.

At any rate, we might laugh, but we also recognize the feeling. That moment of standing there, thoughtless, caught between doing and being. The thing is, it’s not just forgetfulness. It’s a tiny enlightenment, however unintentional. So there you go: next time you forget why you entered a room and your kids or spouse laugh at you, just smile and tell them you are searching for enlightenment.

Autumn Eyes

Autumn in Japan does not arrive all at once — it steals in quietly at night, when even the stars seem to open different eyes.

星既に秋の眼をひらきけり
hoshi sude ni aki no manako wo hirakikeri[1]

already the stars
have opened
autumn eyes…
—Ozaki Kōyō[2]

Night of Stars and Comets - Namiki Hajime
“Night of Stars and Comets” – Namiki Hajime

On the traditional calendar which the haiku world still uses, autumn starts around the second week of August.[3] In the old idea, the peak of the season is the end of the season, and the downward journey towards the next one is included in the next one. That may seem strange to us today, but it’s really no stranger than the way we divide the seasons, just different.

As we move from the peak heat of summer slowly down towards the cooler autumn weather, we primarily notice the change at night first. Long before the leaves start to change or we feel the need to get the scarves out, we might notice a slight hint of cold in an evening wind or a chill at night. It’s more of a vague feeling at first, but when we notice it, we get that feeling: ah — autumn is here.

This poem I think highlights that well. Day time might still be burning hot, but when the stars come out and bring the cooler temperature with them, we notice the season is shifting.


Born in 1868 in Tokyo as Tokutarō Ozaki, Ozaki Kōyō was a novelist and poet who also left behind a small but striking body of haiku. While he is best remembered as a central figure of the Ken’yūsha literary group and for novels such as Konjiki Yasha (The Golden Demon), Kōyō’s sensitivity to seasonal imagery and emotional nuance also found expression in his haiku. His verses often blended classical elegance with the realism of the modern age, reflecting his broader literary style. Despite poor health, he continued writing until his death in 1903 at the age of just 35.


  1. See: Pronunciation of Japanese  ↩

  2. See: a note on translations  ↩

  3. This is called risshū (立秋) under the old system which also named 24 miniseasons and 72 microseasons.  ↩

The King of Japan

I went back and updated this old post I wrote about Yoshimitsu. Japan is unique in that there has only been one dynasty ruling it since the beginning. Often that “ruling” was more like being kept in a golden prison by the real power that be, but still. There have, however, been several figures who may have been close to trying to completely take power and starting their own dynasty. Yoshimitsu may have been the closest to accomplishing it.

Anyway, like I said I updated the post just now. Go back and give it a read.

LINK: Ashikaga Yoshimitsu: Shogun, Sovereign, and the Dream of Dynasty

Komainu and Red Spider Lilies

Autumn is near. It’s hard to tell from the temperature (at least where I am), but we can definitely notice a faint nip in the air. The other day I was at the local shrine and wrote this.

狛犬や無言に見つむ彼岸花
komainu ya mugon ni mitsumu higanbana[1]

komainu — 
silently watching them grow
red spider lilies
—Tenjōka[2]

Komainu Watching Spider Lilies - generated using ChatGPT
Komainu Watching Spider Lilies – generated using ChatGPT

Komainu are the lion-dogs that guard Shinto shrines in Japan in pairs. They are silent guardians, watching, ready to prevent evil from entering what is considered holy ground. I visit the local shrine often enough that the komainu there are like old friends.

Higanbana are flowers of the equinox; their name literally means that. Whatever the weather may be, they always seem to emerge at the right time — just in time to greet the equinox. Maybe that’s one reason they’re so central in Japanese mythology, where they grow on the far side of the River Sanzu,[3] the boundary of the afterlife.

They need a lot of water, so they usually grow near rivers and other places that flood, like rice paddies. But you can also find them around temples or shrines — or cemeteries.

Spooky mythology aside, they are a striking flower. Their delicate stems and blossoms spread into thin curling petals that resemble spider legs. That’s where their English name comes from: red spider lilies. You can find white ones, and I swear I’ve seen yellow before as well, but red is by far the most common variety.

For this haiku, I found a few of them growing at the local shrine, near enough one of the komainu statues that I imagined the old boy had been patiently watching them grow from the moment they appeared above the ground.


  1. See: Pronunciation of Japanese  ↩

  2. That’s me! I’m playing with using it as a penname. See here  ↩

  3. Basically Japan’s version of the River Styx.  ↩

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