Ashikaga Yoshimitsu: Shogun, Sovereign, and the Dream of Dynasty

On May 31, 1408, exactly 617 years ago to this day, one of the most ambitious and enigmatic men in Japanese history died suddenly, just as he seemed poised to crown his life’s work with the ultimate prize: imperial sovereignty. That man was Ashikaga Yoshimitsu (1358–1408), the third shogun of the Ashikaga bakufu, whose reign marks both the zenith of the Muromachi period and a tantalizing might-have-been in the annals of Japanese power politics.

He was a man of many masks: a ruthless political operator, a master of ceremonial spectacle, a patron of the arts, and a would-be emperor in all but name.

The Boy Shogun

Yoshimitsu became shogun at the age of ten, inheriting a fractured Japan still reeling from the split between the Northern and Southern Courts. But unlike his father and grandfather, Yoshimitsu would not merely reign — he would rule. And unlike many shoguns before and after, he had a vision that reached far beyond military control.

By the time he turned twenty, Yoshimitsu had largely unified the country under his rule. He forced the fractious daimyō into submission, brought the Southern Court to heel, and in 1392 brokered a nominal reunification of the imperial line — a move that many historians still view with suspicion, noting how conveniently it ended the Southern Court’s claims just as the Northern Court, which Yoshimitsu supported, cemented its dominance.

In just a few short years, he had asserted his complete dominance.

Patron of Prestige

Yoshimitsu didn’t just unify Japan politically — he elevated it culturally. He funded temples, promoted the arts, and built the extravagant Kitayama-dai, a palace complex in the hills of Kyoto whose surviving structure, Kinkaku-ji (the Golden Pavilion), remains one of Japan’s most iconic buildings and to this day one of the most popular attractions for tourists.

He also reëstablished official trade relations with Ming China, going so far as to accept the Chinese emperor’s title for him — “King of Japan” — a move that scandalized later generations but underscored his realpolitik view of power. It wasn’t just about being shogun. It was about appearing to be sovereign on the international stage.

This was the peak of Ashikaga power. Yoshimitsu stood at the height of authority and held a stronger position than any shogun before him — perhaps even more so than Yoritomo, the first shogun, several centuries earlier. He ruled all and was completely untouchable.

Or so it appeared.

Death and a Dynasty Denied?

In his final years, Yoshimitsu took a series of increasingly bold steps to transform his personal authority into something closer to imperial rule.

He retired in name in 1394, handing the title of shogun to his young son Yoshimochi, but remained in power behind the scenes — very much like a cloistered emperor (insei). In the years that followed, he began openly styling himself as something more than a mere shogun. He had already accepted the Ming title of “king”, as mentioned above. He transformed his private residence into a quasi-palatial compound. And by 1408, he was reportedly preparing for a final transformation—being declared Daijō Tennō, a title normally reserved for retired emperors.

The plan was stunning in its implications. The shogun would not only outshine the emperor, but become him, or something like him. Not through usurpation but by ritual absorption — transforming a military dictatorship into a new hereditary dynasty cloaked in imperial ritual. Admittedly, that’s pure speculation on my part. There is no proof that he wanted to start his own dynasty. But why else try to assume the title and position of a retired emperor? The potential ramifications of this move are too hard to ignore.

And then, on May 31, 1408, just as the transformation was underway, Yoshimitsu suddenly died.

He had shown no signs of illness. He was just fifty years old. Rumors swirled: was it natural causes, a stroke, poison, or perhaps divine retribution for overstepping his role? Was he killed by loyalists of the imperial court, or even by factions within his own bakufu who feared the consequences of his overreach?

We’ll never know. But what we do know is this: within days, the plan to elevate him to Daijō Tennō was quietly dropped. His son, Yoshimochi, repudiated his father’s foreign titles and ambitions, cancelled the Chinese tribute missions, and began pulling the Ashikaga back from the brink of imperial transformation.

The moment passed. The dynasty-that-never-was faded into history, leaving only whispers in court documents and the glimmer of gold on the waters of Kinkaku-ji.

Not only did that moment pass — it marked the beginning of the end for his line. The Ashikaga would quietly (and not-so-quietly) fade until they had so little authority or respect that they couldn’t even control Kyoto, much less Japan, and the warlord Nobunaga chased them out of the city.


Ashikaga Yoshimitsu was far more than just another shogun. He was a liminal figure — standing at the edge of two worlds, two forms of government, two systems of legitimacy. One can only wonder what Japan might have looked like had he lived just a few more years, or if his heirs had shared his vision.

Instead, the Ashikaga would decline. The Onin War and the Sengoku period would follow. And the dream of a shogun-turned-emperor would remain just that — a dream.

[Last updated: 28 Sep 2025]

The Man Who Claimed Hirohito Wasn’t the Real Emperor

A few days ago I posted about Emperor Sukō and the chaos of the Northern and Southern Courts. At the end of the post I mentioned a little trivia that after WWII, a guy came around who claimed to be the true emperor and that the Shōwa Emperor, Hirohito, was a pretender, being a descendent from the Northern Court and not the Southern Court, which is the true line. Today I thought we’d explore this guy and his claim a little.

In the chaotic aftermath of World War II, a Japanese man stepped forward with a bold and deeply symbolic claim: that the Shōwa Emperor, Hirohito, was not the rightful ruler of Japan. Instead, he argued, the real emperor was himself.

His name was Kumazawa Hiromichi (熊沢寛道), and in 1946 he declared himself the legitimate heir to the Chrysanthemum Throne. His reasoning? He claimed to be a direct descendant of the Southern Court, the imperial line officially recognized in 1911 as the legitimate emperors during the Nanboku-chō (Northern and Southern Courts) period of the 14th century.

It was a gutsy, quixotic move — part protest, part political theater, and part historical reckoning. While there have been similar claims and attempted power grabs in the past, as I’ve detailed on this blog, this one was fairly unique.

The Meiji Ruling and Its Echo

To understand Kumazawa’s claim, we have to go back to 1911. That year, Emperor Meiji issued an imperial decree that recognized the Southern Court (founded by Emperor Go-Daigo and his descendants in Yoshino) as the legitimate imperial line. This meant that the Northern Court emperors installed in Kyoto by the Ashikaga shogunate — including Emperor Sukō, mentioned in my previous post — were, officially, not real emperors.

Keep in mind that the Meiji state had elevated the emperor from a largely symbolic figure into the central, divine figure of worship that it would remain until after WWII. Recognizing the Southern Court, whose emperors had actively resisted military usurpers (the shoguns) and refused to relinquish imperial sovereignty, fit this mythology perfectly and went along with their goal of remaking the Emperor into a god.

Fast-forward to the days following WWII. Kumazawa pointed out that Hirohito was a direct descendant of those illegitimate Northern Court emperors. By contrast, Kumazawa claimed descent from the legitimate Southern line, and therefore asserted that he, not Hirohito, was Japan’s true emperor.

A Puppet No More?

Kumazawa wasn’t just spouting off. He formally petitioned the Japanese government and the American Occupation authorities to remove Hirohito from the throne and install him instead. He signed his petitions as “Emperor Kumazawa”, even attempted to establish a court of his own, and gained just enough publicity to land on the radar of fringe monarchist and anti-imperial groups.

His efforts, however, were met with silence. The imperial household, now stripped of its divine status and clinging to what little symbolic power remained under the postwar constitution, had no interest in opening old wounds. And the Americans — busy rewriting Japan’s political system — had little time for dynastic debates rooted in 14th-century succession crises. Both sides had little reason to pay him any attention and were content with sweeping the entire ordeal under the rug.

Historically, rallying points like his have often sparked civil wars, but he wasn’t charismatic enough to gain any real support with the public and therefore the powers that be could easily ensure he was ignored.

Was He Right?

Technically? He kind of had a point. Hirohito’s lineage does trace back to the Northern Court. But — and this is the key point — after the 1392 reunification, the lines were merged. All modern emperors, including Hirohito and the current emperor, Naruhito, are descended from both courts. The Meiji decree was more about political myth-making than legal precedence.

Still, Kumazawa’s actions are fascinating. They remind us how fragile symbols of legitimacy can be — how even something as ancient as the Japanese imperial line can be called into question with the right mix of historical nuance and postwar disruption.

Would-be Emperor Kumazawa never succeeded, but his story lives on as a footnote to the story of Hirohito’s troubled reign. A reminder that sometimes, history’s ghosts don’t stay buried.

“Emperor” Kumazawa does have descendants. One of his sons adopted the name Emperor Sonshin. There is little information about what happened to him however. Another son, Takanobu, has been mentioned but there is also little public information about him. Interestingly, a relative named Terumoto has asserted that Kumazawa was adopted and that he, Terumoto, is the rightful heir.

Maybe the entire family is crazy?

In these strange days, who knows if this will ever come up again and, if it does, if it will spark any kind of movement. Right now it’s just entertaining trivia, but who knows what the future will bring.

[Last updated: 11 Sep 2025]

Early Tonight: A Misguided Promise (A Haiku)

Now this is something I’m sure most of you can relate to.

終日やあくびばかりで早く寝る
shūjitsu ya akubi bakari de hayaku neru[1]

yawning all day
i’ll go to bed early
tonight
—Tenjōka[2]

I think we all know that early tonight never happened.

We have all been there. Stayed up too late, feel incredibly tired in the morning, and promised ourselves that we will make up for it by going to bed early. But then evening comes and, either with a renewed burst of energy or with the feeling of obligation to do some work (or both), we watch as early comes and goes, as bedtime comes and goes, and once again we find ourselves up too late. Le sigh. Maybe tomorrow.[3]

I wrote this on just such a day. I had stayed up till 1am doing work and had then woken at 5am as usual to prepare for the day. There’s sometimes a strange kind of energy that comes from not getting enough sleep and that can fuel us better than any coffee. Unfortunately, that energy only lasted me until the kids were out the door. After that, I couldn’t stop yawning and couldn’t really focus on anything very well. Around noon I took a caffeine pill to help give me a lift and I wrote the above haiku.[4]

[Last updated: 4 Oct 2025]

  1. See: Pronunciation of Japanese  ↩

  2. That’s me! I’m playing with using it as a penname. See here  ↩

  3. I don’t know about you, but I find myself locked in this cycle sometimes for weeks at a time before I finally do go to bed early and catch up on sleep a little.  ↩

  4. The pill didn’t work, by the way. I still was a dead man walking for the rest of the day.  ↩

Emperor Sukō and the Northern Court Legacy

On May 25, 1334, a boy was born into chaos. He would be raised as emperor, rule in exile, and later be remembered not as a sovereign but a pretender. That boy would become Emperor Sukō (崇光天皇), the third of the so-called “Northern Court emperors” backed by the Ashikaga shogunate during Japan’s split dynastic era known as the Nanboku-chō (南北朝, Northern and Southern Courts) period.

If you’ve never heard of Emperor Sukō, don’t feel bad. Most Japanese haven’t either. His name is tucked away in dusty chronicles because the very legitimacy of his rule — along with the rest of the Northern Court — was disavowed by imperial decree in the Meiji era. Officially, only the Southern Court emperors are considered “legitimate.” Sukō and his Northern peers were relegated to the status of tōgō (統合) emperors: basically figureheads installed by military force.

But, as always, the story is more complicated than a simple matter of legitimacy.

The Fractured Court

The split began with Emperor Go-Daigo’s failed attempt to wrest power back from the Kamakura shogunate. After his brief success in the Kemmu Restoration (1333–1336), he was overthrown by Ashikaga Takauji, a former ally who set up a rival emperor in Kyoto. Thus began the Nanboku-chō jidai, a dynastic civil war that lasted from 1336 to 1392, with one emperor in Yoshino (the Southern Court, backed by loyalists to the old imperial line) and another in Kyoto (the Northern Court, backed by the Ashikaga).

Confused yet? Basically the Southern Court was supported by the old aristocracy who wanted to return to the old way (where they controlled the Emperor) and the Northern Court was supported by the Shogunate who wanted a loyal Emperor to do whatever they ordered. In both cases, the Emperor would be controlled. There is a reason that historically being Emperor in Japan has been likened to being imprisoned in a golden cage.

Sukō ascended the Northern throne in 1348 at just 14 years old, following the abdication of his uncle Emperor Kōmyō. His reign was short-lived (lasting just three years, until 1351) when a temporary reconciliation between the two courts led to his forced abdication. The Ashikaga hoped to unify the court under a Southern emperor, but the peace fell apart within a year.

Sukō’s removal marked the beginning of political turbulence even within the Northern Court itself. His own brother would later become Emperor Go-Kōgon, and Sukō’s son attempted to stake a claim to the throne, resulting in further factionalism among Northern loyalists.

The Ashikaga’s Puppet?

Though Sukō held the throne, it’s clear who pulled the strings. The Ashikaga shoguns (particularly Takauji) needed an emperor to legitimize their rule, but had no intention of ceding real power. Sukō was a symbol of that strategy: a child on the throne, a court with no real autonomy, and a dynasty backed not by divine right, but by military might.

Historical Footnote

In 1911, Emperor Meiji’s government ruled that only the Southern Court emperors, descended from Go-Daigo, had rightful claim to the Chrysanthemum Throne. This reshaped Japanese historical understanding, elevating figures like Emperor Go-Murakami while relegating the Northern emperors (Sukō included) to the margins.

Interesting, this episode of history came up again after WWII. A fellow named Kumazawa Hiromichi (熊沢寛道) claimed descent from the Southern line and he declared Emperor Shōwa (Hirohito) as descended from the Northern Court. He therefore proclaimed himself the true emperor and petitioned the Japanese government and US Occupation to strip Shōwa of all power and recognize him. He was mostly ignored. Technically he was correct — Shōwa was descended from the Northern Court — but since the two lines merged after 1392, all modern emperors are descended from both lines.

But I digress. That’s actually a really interesting episode, so I may write another post about it later.

Anyway, Sukō’s existence reminds us that history is often a story written by the victors, as Napoleon once told us. On this day, May 25, it’s worth remembering the boy born into the center of a nation’s constitutional fracture. He may not be counted in the official imperial line anymore, but for a few short years, he wore the crown of Japan.

Why You Don’t See People Eating While Walking in Japan

A week or so ago, I wrote a post about how sitting on the ground in public spaces in Japan can carry different connotations than it does in the West. Read it here. I received a comment from a Japanese reader who mentioned another everyday difference: snacking while walking.

The commenter said:

Snacking culture is different, too, right? My parents or caregivers told me to sit when I eat, but not on the road! However, in other countries, it doesn’t seem to matter. And you know what? Every time I eat snacks on the street while standing, I feel guilty.

And she’s absolutely right. This is another one of those quietly ingrained cultural habits that often surprises first-time visitors to Japan — not because it’s strange, but because of how normal it is everywhere else. If you are the type to pay attention, you sort of notice after awhile: Huh. No one else is eating while walking. Am I doing something wrong?[1]

As I’m sure you’ve seen on YouTube or read about, Japan has convenience stores on almost every corner, even in the smallest town. These truly are convenient and sell a wide variety of useful things, not like the modern US convenience stores that typically only have junk food, random items for your car, and questionable hotdogs. You might be tempted to stop in one of theses places, buy a snack and eat it while walking.

Don’t!

Let’s compare this to the U.S., where walking down the street with a slice of pizza, a coffee, or even a burrito is perfectly normal. In New York or Chicago, someone eating on the subway or while crossing a busy street is an everyday sight. In Japan, it’s not forbidden, exactly — but it is considered a little sloppy. Or worse, inconsiderate and rude.

Why does this difference exist?

  • Cleanliness: Japan places a high value on keeping public spaces clean. Eating while walking risks spilling food, dropping wrappers, dripping sauce, or just getting crumbs everywhere. Even if you don’t make a mess, the idea that you might is enough to make the entire act feel rude.
  • Mindfulness: There’s an unspoken cultural expectation in Japan that eating should be done intentionally. Now, this is a little idealistic. People aren’t monks maintaining silence and complete focus while eating. But that said, this all does work into the cultural expectation. You sit, you eat, you focus on the food. Even if it’s something small, like an onigiri from 7-Eleven, the norm is to step off to the side, finish it, and move on.[2]
  • Space-sharing etiquette: Japanese streets and sidewalks can be narrow, and public transport is famously packed. Eating in close quarters with strangers who might not want to smell your food — or hear you chewing[3] — is considered poor manners.
  • Historical roots: The idea that walking while eating is childish or impolite goes back centuries. Even in samurai times, there were notions of proper comportment in public, and those ideas trickled down into modern social norms.

Exceptions and changes

Like most cultural norms, this one is softening — especially among the younger generation. In big cities like Tokyo and Osaka, you do sometimes see people eating on the go. Convenience store culture makes it easier than ever to do so, and the sheer pace of life means people sometimes trade etiquette for efficiency.

And of course, festivals are a huge exception. At any given matsuri, you’ll see kids and adults alike walking around with chocolate bananas, fried squid, and dripping kakigōri. But again, these are special contexts — temporarily carved out from the usual rules.

It’s also not that rare to see a tired salaryman heading home on the train sneaking a bite of something out of his bag — or a drink of a beer — when he thinks no one is looking. He knows it’s frowned upon, but he’s tired from work and thinks he can get away with it. As long as he is trying to be discreet, most people look the other way.

Speaking of that beer, what about drinks?

Drinking while walking is more accepted. You’ll often see people sipping bottled tea or canned coffee, especially during commutes. But even then, there’s usually a subtle effort to finish it quickly or discreetly. You won’t often see someone sipping a venti Frappuccino while leisurely strolling through a train station.

As a visitor — what should you do?

If you’re traveling in Japan and you’re not sure what’s appropriate, just watch the people around you. If you don’t see others doing it, that’s your clue. And if you really need that onigiri on the go? As I was told long ago, back when I was still a fresh face in the country: step out of the way, squat down, and eat it as quickly as you can.

No one will yell at you for munching while walking, but you’ll be silently marked as an outsider. Whether that matters to you is up to you, but as a foreigner living here, I’d urge you to be a little more aware.

[Last updated: 10 Sep 2025]

  1. You’re not, technically. Kind of. But you’re also not fitting in and are in fact unwittingly playing into the “foreigners have no manners” stereotype.  ↩

  2. In the past, it wouldn’t be strange to see Japanese people squatting down outside the store and eating that onigiri. When you just had to eat now squatting down out of the way was the way to do it. You see this less these days due in no small part to most modern convenience stores having little seating areas inside.  ↩

  3. The random ASMR chewing lover aside.  ↩

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